Jewelry's Shining Stars: The Next Generation. 45 Visionary Women Designers A Talk With Beth Bernstein and Designers Nadine Aysoy, Jenna Blake, Lizzie Mandler, Orly Marcel, Erica Molinari
ASJH's role in the examination of jewelry history includes not just the past, but the present and the future. In this new book, jewelry historian Beth Bernstein highlights some of the most innovative and creative female jewelry designers from around the world. The book details not just the memorable jewels but, with thought-provoking questions the women answer, we come to understand these designers as people with lives lived through their designs. What can't you live without? What is your favorite heirloom piece? What are five of your favorite things? What is your design process? Is there a magic power to jewelry? What's the most important thing you've learned so far? What past designer do you admire most and why? And many many other questions. The talk will consist of a panel including Beth Bernstein and the designers Nadine Aysoy, Jenna Blake, Lizzy Mandler, Orly Marcel, and Erica Molinari. Subjects covered will include how their pasts have influenced their designs. The talk will last about one hour and then there will be 15 minute Q&A.
Beth Bernstein is a jewelry historian, author, journalist, and one-time jewelry designer. Her books include "The Modern Guide to Antique Jewelry"(ACC Art Books, 2022), "If These Jewels Could Talk" (ACC Art Books, 2015), "Jewelry's Shining Stars" (Fine Points Publishing, 2013), and a memoir, "My Charmed Life" (Penguin, 2012). Beth has contributed to many magazines, journals, and publications, including Forbes, Jewelry Connoisseur, Rapaport Magazine, The Jewellery Editor, Accent, Elite Traveler, and Four Seasons Departures. She has worked as a senior editor for two leading national jewelry magazines as well as launching her own jewelry magazine bejeweledmag.com in 2017. She also lectures, runs, and participates in seminars and educational events. During the 1990's, she designed a jewelry collection marketed as Bethany B.
An Intro to Jewelry Forensics
Here’s a quickie quiz for members of ASJH:
-What do all the numbers mean when it comes to gold quality? Do you REALLY know?
-What do the initials EP, HGP, and GF mean?
-What is die struck, what is cast? How do I differentiate?
-How do I know the jewel is well constructed?
-What are the characteristics of a handmade piece?
These questions pertain to how a piece is made, and of course, jewelry history offers examples of all manner of jewels both exemplary and mediocre. It’s critically important to know a bit about “ jewelry forensics”, whether you’re a dealer or a collector. Join Al Gilbertson, a past lecturer for ASJH and Project Manager of Cut Research at the GIA Carlsbad Lab, as we explore this topic. We guarantee your skills when looking at a jewel will be heightened after hearing this talk.
Al Gilbertson, currently the Project Manager of Cut-Research at GIA’s Carlsbad Laboratory, was raised in the lapidary (gem-cutting) business and eventually managed a high-end AGS retail jeweler whose shop employed several custom goldsmiths. He later owned a high-end trade shop specializing in several areas, including platinum fabrication and antique jewelry restoration, and owned an appraisal service servicing over seventy jewelers. Al holds a Graduate Gemologist Diploma (1979) from GIA and an American Gem Society Certified Gemologist title (1979). Al is best known for his work in understanding gem and diamond appearance. He is the sole inventor of two patents related to cut evaluation that the American Gem Society acquired, which are the basis of their ASET technology. GIA hired him in 2000, and he is one of GIA’s researchers who created GIA’s cut grading system for the round brilliant. Al has also been a columnist for Professional Jeweler on appraisal issues and was a Jeweler’s Education Foundation Fellow. Al is the author or co-author of many articles related to cut evaluation. Al is a rigorous and exhaustive researcher, well known for his book American Cut —The First 100 Years, a comprehensive historical record of the development of round, brilliant-cut for diamonds from the mid-1800s to the mid-1900s. In recognition of Al’s significant contributions to the gemological field, the Accredited Gemologists Association bestowed the Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology in 2017. Al was approached in 2017 to build a class to teach Jewelry Forensics. He assembled a number of experts to build the class and is now working on a manual for the class.
Missed the lecture?
Harry Winston: In Pursuit of the Perfect Jewel
Certainly one of the most iconic names in jewelry history, Harry Winston remains one of the most fascinating individuals even decades after his death. At a young age, he instinctively “ knew” gemstones; at the tender age of 12, he bought an emerald for twenty-five cents and sold it for $800 two days later. He was an innate gemologist and consummate salesman whose talents and determination propelled him around the globe. From the diamond mines of Africa to fierce competition with DeBeers, Harry Winston was crowned “The King of Diamonds” by Cosmopolitan Magazine in 1947. Please join ASJH as Angela Hedges shares stories of Harry Winston's lifelong search for the perfect jewel
Angela Hedges began her lifelong career in the jewelry business with Service Merchandise in the Midwest. Her career then took her to New York City in 2002, where experience with retailers such as Fortunoff and Macy’s led to her dream job at Harry Winston as head of Archives, Valuations, and Estate Jewelry. Now, through AMH Luxury Consulting, she offers her expertise to privates, trade, and auction houses on estate jewels and, of course, all things Winston.
The Art of Jewelry, the Art of David Webb: a talk with Ruth Peltason at the David Webb boutique in NYC
The Art of David Webb takes direct aim at the subject, “Is jewelry art?” That’s a question David Webb raised 60 years ago, in a news editorial he wrote, and it’s still relevant. Today, only a handful of American museums actively engage in collecting jewelry, and those that do concentrate on ancient and historic works, or jewelry not much past the Art Deco period. In this glorious new book, Ruth Peltason pairs the company’s jewelry from its earliest days to the present alongside paintings, sculpture, fashion, and architecture, proving that yes, jewelry is art. Author and jewelry historian Ruth Peltason, who has spoken at the ASJH over the years, will speak to members at the elegant David Webb salon on Wednesday, December 13th.
Ruth Peltason is a well-known and respected author, editor, jewelry historian, and lecturer. She is the author of Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair With Jewelry, David Webb: The Quintessential American Jeweler, and Living Jewels. She has contributed to numerous jewelry books and also created the David Webb archives for the firm. Ruth’s articles have appeared in such publications as Air Mail, Antiques, Sotheby’s, the Natural Diamond Council, and the ASJH.
Copies of the book will be available for purchase and author's signature at the event. For out-of-town members or those who cannot attend, Ruth Peltason will sign bookplates to be sent to members who have purchased the book elsewhere.
Pearls: Myths and Magnificence
Before diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, the organic concretion known as "pearl" has remained a treasured constant among collectors. An enigmatic gem, mythical among gemstones, it needs none of the usual faceting and polishing to reveal its beauty; its simplicity speaks volumes. As historians, we think of pearls on portraits of royals over the centuries, pearls worn by famous women such as Marilyn Monroe or Elizabeth Taylor, famous names such as Mikimoto in the late 1800s, the fascinating story of the Cartier mansion in NYC, the simple pearl stud earring or necklace many women received as gifts when young; all have to do with this unique gemstone. Michael Coan, well known adjunct instructor at FIT in NYC, will speak to ASJH members in a comprehensive and fascinating look at pearls throughout history. We guarantee you will look at pearls through different lenses after this fascinating talk.
Michael Coan was Chair of the Jewelry Design Department of the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC from 2001 to 2015. He has been involved in the jewelry industry for the past 40 years, including bench work, appraisals, manufacturing and production, mentoring, jewelry design, and as a graduate gemologist. His profound love for education on the subject of jewelry permeates all he does, and he has lectured for numerous organizations on various jewelry-related subjects.
Missed the lecture?
The History of Design: Symbolism in Global Jewelry
Navaratna pendant
Kundan set gemstones in nephrite jade with pearl dangle.
photo credit Sindi Schloss
Interview with Linda Kozloff-Turner, author of “Women of Jewelry: A Global Representation of 100 Women’s Stories”
An exclusive one-on-one interview with Linda Kozloff-Turner, author of the newly published book “Women of Jewelry: A Global Representation of 100 Women’s Stories”. A compilation of women jewelers ranging in age and experience and styles, this new book introduces the reader to 100 extraordinary women jewelry designers from an intensely personal perspective. What inspires them, what challenges them, how has the business world impacted their careers? Join Diana Singer, President of ASJH, and Ms Kozloff-Turner as both the topics covered in the book and the journey the author took to create it will be discussed.
En ronde: Curves in Designs of Women Jewelers with guest speaker Diana Singer
The inherent morphology of the female body has been a prominent theme in design throughout the millennia. How does this influence affect female jewelry designers and the shapes they choose for their jewels?
Join estate jewelry dealer and jewelry historian Diana Singer as she explores the subject of curves and orbs in women's jewelry.
Prominent designers such as Suzanne Belperron, Coco Chanel, Marilyn Cooperman, and Marianne Ostier (among others) will be examined and discussed.
Diana Singer has been an estate jewelry dealer since 1975. She is the current president of the ASJH and has lectured for numerous organizations, including "jewelry camp", auction houses, appraiser's associations, and museums. She has authored articles that have been published in trade journals and is often quoted in articles dealing with the subject of jewelry.
The Singular Art of Daniel Brush
Photo Credit: Takaaki Matsumoto
The remarkable Daniel Brush (1947-2022) was one of America's most celebrated and innovative jewelers of the 20th and 21st centuries. A polymath whose talents included painting, sculpting, metalwork, jewelry design, and even poetry, Brush was a magician steeped in metallurgy, philosophy, and the history of art. He utilized such high art materials as pure gold, diamonds, and precious stones while also embracing plastic, aluminum, and steel. His work defies easy definition, but is instantly recognizable and thrillingly unique. Mr Brush passed away in late November of this year; it is a profound loss for the jewelry world and for aesthetes worldwide.
As jewelry historians, we are presented with a rare opportunity to hear Beth Carver Wees, Curator Emerita, The American Wing, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where for over 20 years she oversaw the collections of American silver, jewelry, and other metalwork. She lectures internationally and is the author of numerous articles and books. She was one of six organizing curators for The Met's 2018-19 exhibition, "Jewelry: The Body Transformed", as well as a contributor to its catalogue. Her exhibition "Jewelry for America" was on view at The Met from June 2019 to May 2021. And perhaps most importantly, Ms. Wees knew Daniel Brush well, offering us the ability to obtain insights into his mindset and work ethic; her talk will offer an overview of his career emphasizing the passion, creativity, and drive that enabled him to achieve his seemingly impossible goals.
From Utopia to Anarchy: The R-evolution of 1950's to 1970's Jewelry
How did we get from the prim and proper 1950s ("Mad Men" lovers, we're talking to you!) to the free and radical 1970s? If you lived through it, you remember the turbulent times all too well. If you're too young to remember the period, now's your chance to deeply understand how and why jewelry design today is impacted by those memorable decades. Encompassing post-WWII political correctness on through the swinging 60s and the spiritual 70s, this time frame was responsible for tremendous change in all aspects of society - jewelry included. Join us in welcoming jewelry appraiser and historian Gina D'Onofrio as she guides us through an exploration of the culture, fashion, and jewelry of the period. You'll discover the key design elements, designers and artists, and the influences that led to this seismic shift in jewelry design, and most importantly, how it impacts the jewelry market today. We think you'll be quite surprised at the things you discover.
Gina D' Onofrio is a fully accredited Gemologist Appraiser and heads an award-winning appraisal service in Beverly Hills, Ca. She has over 30 years of experience in retail, design, and jewelry production and recently ran the jewelry department at Heritage Auctions in Beverly Hills. She is a published writer and well-respected speaker on the subject of jewelry and appraisal-related topics.
A “Sentimental” Journey with Beth Bernstein
It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Or maybe you have a creative project to share with the world. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
Earrings: From Antiquity to Present: A Talk With Amanda Triossi
It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Or maybe you have a creative project to share with the world. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
The History and Jewelry of Buccellati with Peter Shemonsky
The lecture will showcase the history of the house of Buccellati from its founder, Mario Buccellati through its four generations of family members who have maintained his original aesthetic in creating the most luxurious and expensive handmade jewelry in the world. In addition I will be covering the styles and engraving techniques which are the benchmark of Buccellati along with reviewing the signatures and copies which appear in the marketplace.
CV:
Peter Shemonsky has been working in the jewelry industry for his entire career. He is a craftsman, appraiser and worked within the auction world for the past 30 years. In addition he has been a featured appraiser on the Antiques Roadshow on PBS for the past 19 years along with being a noted Jewelry historian.
From Regicide to Revolution: Examining Stuart and Georgian Jewelry from 1649-1789 - Jacquelyn Babush
Georgian jewels have always been fabulously collectible, from the years of their creation up until the present day. The table cut stones, the foil backings, the metals used, the unique chains- all form a tableau of style that is distinctive and historically significant. Please join us in welcoming Georgian jewelry expert Jacquelyn Babush as she focuses on identifying jewelry of the Stuart and Georgian periods, discussing the evolution of fashion and its impact on jewelry. Construction details, materials used, and specific design formats clearly delineating these eras will be discussed. This lecture is deeply important for any jewelry dealer or historian who comes across jewelry from the period, as there are a number of incorrect pieces in the market. NB: the lecture duration will be about 11/2 hours so please allocate appropriate time for it.
Beyond Fabergé: A Rare Look at the Exquisite World of Russian Treasures that Lie Beyond Fabergé with Marie Betteley
Join us as ASJH member, jewelry dealer, and leading expert of Russian decorative arts, Marie Betteley unveils her groundbreaking new book: Beyond Fabergé: Imperial Russian Jewelry. Until now, the history of Russian jewels from the imperial era has been tied to only one name: Carl Fabergé. But Fabergé was only one of many extraordinary goldsmiths who plied the Romanovs with the opulent treasures they so fervently desired. In fact, long before Fabergé, and for some 200 years, St. Petersburg jewelers perfected their craft so that soon the quality of their jewels equaled if not surpassed the best that Europe’s capitals could offer. Marie will uncover for you the fascinating stories and splendid creations of talented jewelers like Pauzié, Bolin, Köchli, and others who helped make the Romanov court the richest in Europe. During these 45 minutes, you’ll discover many little known yet dazzling treasures, as well as their market and new information on the history of the Russian Crown Jewels.
Born in Paris, Marie Betteley grew up in a world of Russian treasures, having spent her teenage years on the grounds of Hillwood Museum in Washington, DC, as the director’s daughter. She majored in art history at university and went on to earn a Graduate Gemologist diploma from the Gemological Institute of America. Marie’s professional career began at Christie’s auction house in New York where she worked as a gemologist and eventually rose to head of the Russian Department. After ten years at Christie’s, she launched her own business trading in antique jewels.
Everything You Always Wanted To Know About Curators But Were Afraid To Ask: A Talk with Beth Carver Wees, Emily Stoehrer, and Ulysses Grant Dietz
Beth Carver Wees
Emily Stoehrer
Ulysses Grant Dietz
It's a reliably wonderful treat to visit a museum and stroll through the jewelry collections. As ASJH members and jewelry lovers, we've all gone out of our way to find hidden treasures in special exhibitions and marvel at the iconic pieces in permanent collections. We've learned valuable jewelry history from the notations near the pieces, and we've all bought catalogs and postcards to take a bit of the magic home with us after our visit. But who plans all this magnificence? Who does all the behind-the-scenes work - choosing the pieces, researching the jewels and their provenances, making sure it's all correct - and how do they do it? We've invited three experienced curators to share their knowledge and stories with ASJH members worldwide. Beth Carver Wees is the Ruth Bigelow Wriston Curator of American Decorative Arts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, Dr. Emily Stoehrer is Rita J Kaplan and Susan B Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston, and Ulysses Grant Dietz was Curator of Decorative Arts and Chief Curator at The Newark Museum for 37 years. These three curators bring lifetimes of experience to us as they share their memories, knowledge, experience, and personal favorites in this 60-minute presentation.
If you missed this webinar, you may watch below